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Author: Bev Appleton

Bastille Day

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On Monday, 225 years ago, the Storming of Bastille took place.  The medieval fortress and prison in Paris, known as the Bastille, represented royal authority in the centre of the city. The prison only contained seven inmates at the time but the storming was a symbol of the abuses of the monarchy and its fall was the flashpoint of the French Revolution.

It’s a very special day in France so how about something equally special to drink on 14 July?  This bottle of Jules Robin Cognac was distilled the very same year of the conflict, 225 years ago.

Rémy takeover rumoured

Posted in Famous Cognac Houses, News and tagged

Share price rises despite poor performance

Rémy Cointreau is enjoying a stock market lift after rumours of a takeover bid by Brown-Forman – the makers of Jack Daniel’s and Southern Comfort – raised the group’s share price by 3%. The group has been badly hurt by a Chinese government crackdown on extravagant spending, with sales of the company’s flagship cognac falling 32% in the final quarter of last year, following a 30% drop in sales during the third-quarter.  It is reported that the offer was flatly refused and it is difficult to see how a family run business would be prepared to lose control of it, at any price.  In China cognac is regarded as a status symbol and our evidence shows that in time, the Chinese will find a way around the new ruling.  Remy should and will, we believe, fight hard to keep their independence as the market for luxury goods in China will inevitably return to being a highly lucrative one.

 

Big Cognac Houses Struggle in China

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Phthalate ruling may change

All of the big cognac houses have seen their profits in China fall lately.  This is thanks not only to the Chinese government’s restrictions on luxury gifts but also to its refusal to accept cognac containing even minimal levels of phthalates.  The latter has become a real problem for the industry as most aged cognacs have passed through phthalate-laden plastic pipes at some point in their lives.  The levels allowed in China are currently far more stringent than the rest of the world but according to a member of the BNIC Board, this is set to change.  There is real optimism that by the end of this year the Chinese phthalate regulations will reflect the European ones.  Undoubtedly this will boost the waning Chinese market, which the ‘Big Four’ in particular continue to pursue, as the supply chain will become more accessible.

 

Hermitage Provenance Cognac

Posted / in Brandy Bottle Reviews, News, The Bottle Story and tagged

Launched recently at VINEXPO 2014 in Hong Kong, our new Hermitage Provenance Cognac range was designed specifically for the Asian market.  All have age statements and bear the hallmarks of luxury, single estate cognacs.  The range currently comprises 6 and 10 year old in our trademark ‘Exception’ bottle,  20 year old in the ‘Helios’ carafe and 25 and 30 year old (pictured) in our new ‘Eden’ carafe.  Following extensive research, the range was launched in a new style of packaging, featuring  the iconic Charantais still, which encompasses the Asian desire for recognisable and regal presentation boxes.

The Cognac Process – Part 10. 19th Century March for Perfection

Posted / in The Cognac Process and tagged

One of the biggest changes in cognac production in the 19th century was the change of grape from the Folle, or Folle Blanche as we know it today, to the Ugni Blanc after the Phylloxera outbreak in 1872. The Cognaçais were, in effect, forced to try and understand their viniculture on a more sophisticated level. By controlling crop levels, so as to reduce stress on the new roots, controlling disease and the timing of harvesting the grapes, the quality of the wine improved and therefore the cognac.

The clearer thinking on viniculture also rubbed off on the viticulture and the ageing process. The introduction of wine warmers, different still shapes and sizes, time controls on the grapes before pressing to avoid bacteria and the use of lees to add flavour were all part of the rapid learning which added more attractive qualities to the spirit. As skill and knowledge of the distillation process improved, so too did understanding of the ageing process.  Cellar masters began learning about the effect of the barrels on the quality of the cognac.  Barrels could be made from different oaks, in various sizes and perhaps most importantly, if stored in damp cellars spirit migration could be controlled.

Godet, An Historical Lesson

Posted in Famous Cognac Houses, How to make Cognac, The History of Cognac and tagged

White Cognac from Coal

The pressure on cognac houses in the early noughties to sell greater quantities inspired some to try and produce a white or clear cognac. Of course this should not be possible as cognac must be aged in oak and the wood always imparts some colour and most of all flavour. Consequently, when Hennessy introduced a ‘white’ cognac it still had some colour. So, one of the oldest cognac houses, Godet, produced a plan to solve this problem by filtering their cognac through coal. The plan worked and they launched Antarctica as a ‘white’ cognac.  However, Cognac rules do not allow this as the cognac has not been made in the traditional way and the name Godet is associated with cognac. It now seems that the term ‘cognac’ has been dropped but it is still called Godet Antarctica. It is understood that heated discussions about the name continue between Godet, the BNIC and Customs. Rumours in Cognac suggest that the house may be put up for sale but Jacques Godet, the fourteenth head of the firm who conceived the idea after a trip to Antarctica, has recently handed control to his sons suggesting that this is unlikely in the near future.

Do colour and sound affect taste?

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The environment in which you experience a wine has a profound effect on how you will perceive it to taste, according to Charles Spence, an Oxford University professor. His research proves that lighting and music can act as digital seasoning for food and wine.  A red room helps to bring out the fruity notes in the wine whilst in a green room the fruit profile disappears and the wine appears closed.  Although music has less of an effect on taste perception than colour, Spence is convinced that different types of music influence our taste buds – colourblind tasters experience huge changes in flavour perception when different kinds of music are played.  Interestingly wine and spirits are described in a similar way to music, as having different ‘notes’. Citrus flavours are seen as high notes, while wood and chocolate are low notes.  The Professor has worked with Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck Experimental Kitchen for the last 12 years and dining there is now a complete experience that takes colour, sound and environment into account.  He is now hoping this will inspire others to do the same.

A classic cognac with citrus ‘notes’ is Hermitage 1989 and Hermitage 30 year old is our most popular cognac with chocolate ‘notes’.

The Charente Scene – Summer 2014

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Storms hit Charente again

Once again the weather has played a major role in the Charente. A big storm has blown up over the region and caused substantial damage to the vines, in some cases stripping them of all their leaves. Fortunately, much of the Grande Champagne region has been spared with just the extreme western side affected. Some vineyards have lost 100% of this year’s harvest whilst others have only lost 10%. It seems that there was a safe corridor from north to south where little damage was done but producers are already counting the cost of the storm.

One of the effects of bad weather is a reduction in supply which ultimately creates an increase in price. The slow down in sales to the Far East has reduced the pressure on prices so far this year and so, with the holiday period approaching, the weather is unlikely to have a major effect now.  However, some reports of price increases have been received so we’ll keep our fingers crossed!

Hong Kong success opens the door to Chinese market

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Hermitage Cognacs went down a storm at the recent VINEXPO Exhibition in Hong Kong with many visitors stating that they were “the best cognacs they had tasted at the show”.  Launching our new Provenance Range, we were delighted with the feedback and the interest shown by all our visitors.

There clearly is still a market for luxury cognacs in China and both the products, and specifically designed packaging, were highly acclaimed.  Although most enquiries came from Hong Kong and China as expected, we also received potential customers from distributors in Taiwan, the Philippines, Singapore and India.

World War 1 Cognacs – Centenary ‘toasts’ available

Posted / in Brandy Bottle Reviews, News and tagged

A secret hotel cellar in Worcestershire has been discovered, revealing amongst other treasures, two bottles of Hine 1914 Cognac.  A wonderful find, you might think, in 2014 the 100th anniversary of the outbreak of The Great War.  Due to be auctioned shortly, they have been valued at £3000 each which is surely a little optimistic.  WW1 Cognacs are, of course, great vintages to have but there are still a few alternatives available.  Our own Hermitage 1914 Borderies Cognac is very special indeed with an incredible spectrum of flavours from toffee to walnuts and provides excellent value for money.  Referred to as “his most prized bottle” by Olly Smith, TV Presenter and Journalist, it retails at under £900.  Similarly priced is our Hermitage 1917 Grande Champagne Cognac.  A little drier to taste, it provides an equally memorable, luxury experience.

So, if you’re looking to provide WW1 Vintage Cognacs we can supply some of the very best.