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Godet, An Historical Lesson

White Cognac from Coal

The pressure on cognac houses in the early noughties to sell greater quantities inspired some to try and produce a white or clear cognac. Of course this should not be possible as cognac must be aged in oak and the wood always imparts some colour and most of all flavour. Consequently, when Hennessy introduced a ‘white’ cognac it still had some colour. So, one of the oldest cognac houses, Godet, produced a plan to solve this problem by filtering their cognac through coal. The plan worked and they launched Antarctica as a ‘white’ cognac.  However, Cognac rules do not allow this as the cognac has not been made in the traditional way and the name Godet is associated with cognac. It now seems that the term ‘cognac’ has been dropped but it is still called Godet Antarctica. It is understood that heated discussions about the name continue between Godet, the BNIC and Customs. Rumours in Cognac suggest that the house may be put up for sale but Jacques Godet, the fourteenth head of the firm who conceived the idea after a trip to Antarctica, has recently handed control to his sons suggesting that this is unlikely in the near future.

Suntory Acquires Beam – Japanese Drinks Company becomes the Third Largest

Suntory Holdings Limited, based in Osaka, and US based Beam Inc. have announced that they have entered into a definitive agreement whereby Suntory will acquire all shares of Beam in a deal worth $16bn.  The acquisition, which will bring together Beam’s Courvoisier Cognac with Suntory’s Louis Royer Cognac, amongst other famous brands, is expected to make it the third largest supplier of premium spirits in the world, with a stated aim of becoming the global leader in distilled spirits.  Wasting no time on its expansion plans, it is reported that Suntory have subsequently made a bid to buy Whyte & Mackay whisky which has been put up for sale by fellow drinks giant, Diageo.  Competition concerns by the UK Office of Fair Trading forced Diageo to make this sale following its takeover of United Spirits.  One therefore has to question the motive of Suntory in making this move as they may now be heading for a run in with the OFT themselves.  So many cognac houses have been bought up of late it is always a concern to see the control of one of the big four moving to the Far East.  Monopolies of this size cannot be good for the cognac industry however we are in no doubt that our own House, Hermitage, will survive.

Trouble Afoot at Remy Martin?

There have been significant changes at Remy Martin over the past month.  First, it was announced that their Cellar Master, of 10 years, is to be replaced in the spring and then, last week, their newly appointed CEO resigned after only 3 months in post.  Although his resignation came as a surprise, it coincided with some poor company results.  Stock levels have dropped by 23% since he took over in October and operating profit is expected to be down by 20% at the end of the fiscal year.  These personality changes suggest that all is not well at Remy. It would seem that the Board is on a quest for a more profit driven approach, no doubt at the expense of quality.  We have seen similar changes at family rivals, Frapin, in recent times.  A drive to expand saw their extremely talented Cellar Master, Olivier Paultes, move on and the running of the company being passed down a generation.  Their cognac may never be quite the same again.

Chinese buy Roullet Fransac

Next time you go to Cognac pop into any producer and ask them who is next door and they won’t know, but ask them if they know George Roullet and the answer will either be a look, suggesting you should leave the premises quickly, or a fit of laughter. Roullet Fransac is situated on the quay next to Hennessy in Cognac.  It therefore offers clients visiting Hennessy a chance to browse around the dusty shelves of its premises for an alternative to the sticky, sugary, caramel offerings next door. George would buy his cognacs from local chais in Grande Champagne, including his old family firm in Cherminac. Admittedly, he had some good cognacs but whether George ever knew what was good and what was not so good is debatable but what he did know, even when enjoying his Paris apartment, was a good deal. As the CEO of one famous old house once said, “George is George”. No doubt George did a good deal with the Chinese, he had tried with many others! In all probability the house of Hine, who have just sold the firm to the Nicolas family for circa €50m, will have done a rather different deal; the Nicolas family know what is really good!

Hennessy & Remy Martin Expansion Plans

With a burgeoning desire for cognac, two of the largest players in the market are putting plans into place to ensure they can keep up with the ever increasing global demand.  Hennessy has acquired a plot on the outskirts of Cognac where it will build an additional bottling plant aiming to increase production from 60 to 120 million bottles by 2030.  Not to be outdone, Remy Martin are investing a further 30 million € into its production site at Merpins with the aim of increasing their manufacturing capacity by 30% over the next 5 years.  These expansions must send alarm bells ringing as the increase in capacity will diminish cognac stocks more rapidly, increasing price and forcing the big houses to blend younger and younger eaux de vie.    As a consequence, age-statemented, single estate cognacs, such as Hermitage, will become more sought after than ever.

 

Larsen Cognac Sold Again – Remy Martin sells its Norwegian brand

After less than a year, Larsen Cognac is changing hands again.  It has been purchased by Altia, the leading Finnish wine and spirits company in the Nordic and Baltic countries, an area where Larsen has historically positioned itself as a key cognac brand.  The interim owners, Remy Martin have brokered a deal which hands over all aspects of the brand, including the industrial and commercial assets and the necessary inventories to continue operating Larsen as a going concern.  This has to be good news for the industry as the big houses eradicate much individuality by blending hundreds of cognacs together.  It was thought that Remy originally bought Larsen for its stocks but since they only make cognac from Fine Champagne, only some of the eaux de vie was useful.  Now, everyone is happy it would seem.  Altia get a great cognac brand; one with a history reaching back to 1926 and a unique range of products. Remy, on the other hand, have acquired some interesting cognacs to bolster their own stocks.  Most importantly though, Larsen is no longer in the hands of a big house so may yet retain some character and independence.

Cognac Frapin acquires more Vineyards

Perhaps one of the last Grandees of the cognac industry, Frapin, is expanding its vineyards to keep up with the demand in China. Frapin, best known for its famous Chateau Fontpinot which is set in some of the best area of Grande Champagne, has increased its vineyards by 11% taking the total area to 240 hectares and sufficient to provide more than 2500 hectolitres of eau de vie.  Probably their best cognacs originate from their cellars in Segonzac where they hold many vintages but are best known for the wonderful cognac named after their famous chateau.  It is their prized possession, retained after the family feuds in the 1970s when they severed their connection with Remy Martin and ceased to supply them with their cognacs.

Hine Cognac Up for Sale

Yet another big cognac house is up for sale.  Hine Cognac, which was founded in Jarnac in 1763, celebrates its 250th Anniversary this year.  The name Hine originates from an Englishman who married into the family in the early 19th century and the House has remained in the hands of Hine descendants ever since.  Abiding by the founder’s motto ‘less is more’ they have continued to produce relatively small quantities of very high quality cognac.  The current owner, CL World Brands, has recently relinquished its stake in Jamaican Appleton Rum and the whisky producers Burn Stewart Distillers fuelling rumours that their parent company, CL Financial, are in financial turmoil.  Although there is no news yet of whom the buyer may be, it is a real shame that they are being forced to sell Hine under these circumstances.  So many of the smaller cognac houses have been snapped up by the ‘big four’ resulting in quality, single estate stock being lost to the blending process which is used to meet the ever growing demand from Asia.

Another Cognac House Falls – Larsen Cognac sells to Remy Martin

Larsen, the Norwegian owned cognac House in Cognac has been bought by Remy Martin for an undisclosed sum. The firm was known for their Viking ship bottles and Norsemen ceramic decanters that were often seen in duty free shops at airports. Remy have agreed to keep the brand going as it will fuel their range of customers in the Scandinavian markets. Larsen were negoçiants and don’t make any cognacs themselves but buy them in, mainly from the Champagnes.  This may well be another reason why Remy were interested, as like the other big houses, they are desperate to get their hands on as much good quality stock as they can to feed their Chinese customers.

Larsen moved to Cognac in 1919, seduced by the quality of the French brandies. He became well known in the area and was regarded as a connoisseur of fine cognacs. His brand is a market leader in Scandinavia where customers are able to buy Larsen cognacs in the Limoge decanters as well as the luxury Baccarat Crystal decanters that have become synonymous with the brand. It is a shame that yet another of the old cognac houses has fallen to the big four but maybe this was inevitable due to the pressures on the market and the rising cost of cognac.  Larsen supply a range of blended cognacs all containing additives.

The Good & Great Cognac Houses – Hermitage

At the end of our series on the Good and Great Cognac houses, we thought it appropriate to do a bit of chest beating for our very own Hermitage Cognacs. They are not the products of a single distiller, but from family distilleries and cellars with proven production and ageing procedures.

The concept of Hermitage Pure Vintage Cognacs was formed about fifteen years ago, as we recognised the need to move away from blended cognacs which lacked individuality and failed to promote the age of the cognacs in the bottle. Our customers recognised that older brandies are better than young ones.

The difficulty we recognised is that the distillation of cognac must be to between 67 and 72 degrees alcohol, after which all cognacs take many years to drop naturally to 40%, the commercial selling level of alcohol. The problem was that the commercial pressures to sell in volume was outstripping availability, which put huge pressure on the older stocks available in the thousands of cellars in the region. Those pressures have become far more acute now, with world sales of cognacs at nearly double those of the mid 1990s. which meant that the big houses were creaming off the best vintages for blending.

Although there are many distilleries supplying us, we now have four or five who meet our stringent Hermitage requirements for quality and ageing and adapt their cognacs to meet our customer’s needs.

In those fifteen years of Hermitage, we have created some of the very finest cognacs and we have the gold medals for best vintages to prove it.