The defeat of Napoleon in 1815 was a great relief to the Cognacais. In the following decades the town burst beyond its medieval walls and the new rich merchants such as Otard and Dupuy were able to show their wealth with large houses built in the woods around Cognac. Even so, Martell and Hennessy retained their pre-eminence and most crucially were able to set the process for which the growers would sell their brandies to the merchants. They formed hereditary relationships that were governed not by contract, but by the habit of regularly trading, which had become a style of the people in the area. The merchants’ position was strengthened in 1857 by a new law which enabled them to register their trademarks. Previously, most cognacs, especially in Britain had been sold under the merchants own names who had imported them in casks.

In 1861-2 a brief period of glory emerged when the customs duties were reduced by the British and sales tripled in 15 years to 450,000 hectolitres (65 million bottles) annually.  From Latin America to Tsarist Russia, cognac became the fashionable spirit. The Charente became the biggest vineyard in France and thousands of acres of marginal land were planted with vines to cope with the new found demand in brandy.

But in 1871 the region was struck down with the dreaded Phylloxera vastatrix, a yellow beetle imported from the New World. The beetle feed on the roots of the vine, causing fungal infection and root deformation that eventually killed the plant .

The independence enjoyed by many of the growers, especially in the Champagnes, came to and end as the Phylloxera vastatrix beetle quickly killed off most of the vines. The survival of the brandy industry became a real issue during the 20 or so years it took to replant with Phylloxera resistant vines. Many growers decided to change crops to cereals as a means of paying the bills. It probably took more than 10 years to find a vine with a suitable rootstock that suited the chalky conditions of the Charente. It was in the 1880’s that a source was found by T V Munson, who lived in Texas near the Red River.

The Phylloxera plague changed the industry for good, and it was the larger well financed merchants who got the upper hand. Whilst could have exploited the growers by buying up the their land at very low prices, instead their exploitation was of a longer term. They lead the way offering vines grafted onto phylloxera resistant root stock, advice and fertilizer. This philosophy worked well for the biggest merchants, since it created a high level of allegiance from the growers who became dependant on merchants to sell their eaux de vie.

There were other struggles, though mainly as a result of fraud that had besmirched the good name of Cognac during the years of shortage. This was largely settled by legislation in 1905 and reinforced in 1929 by the special Acquit Jaune d’Or, the gold coloured certificate of origin which accompanies every load of cognac leaving the Charente region to its customers around the world.

Heavy duties on brandies in Britain led to lively smuggling traffic throughout the century. In Rudyard Kiplings words, Brandy for the Parson (together with the other highly taxed item), Baccy for the clerk. In the late eighteenth century, Adam Smith concluded that smugglers were the biggest importers of French goods into Britain.

By the end of the eighteenth century cognacs were being stored in oak casks for longer periods and the outbreak of war in 1756 actually helped the situation. The Market was big and every year 200,000 barriquess de vin propres à brûler, from which emerged 13,400 pipes, (each of 3 barriques or about 600litres), adding up to 8 million litres of eau de vie.

Getting these brandies into Britain created great difficulties because of the war, so they had to be shipped over land through Holland by cart, and this meant they were in casks for greater period of time. In addition, the casks were being stored, and in 1780 Richard Hennessey noted that shrewd operators were buying up a years supply, keeping them for a year, befor selling them as “Old Brandies”.

By the 1790’s both Martell and Hennessey had established themselves and some further names had also come onto the scene, such as Otard Dupuy, two growers who had set up comfortable stocks, Thomas Hine, the descendant of a Dorset family and Ransom and James Delamain, whose son Jacques set up by himself by marrying the daughter of Isaac Ransom. Paul Roullet and Philippe Augier completed a trio by also marrying a Ransom.

The outbreak of Total war failed to put a stop to sales of brandies, partly due to a drop in price, partly due to  the British Minister Sir John Nichol a declaring “the need for a little wine and French Brandy”.

By 1800 many of the houses that we know of today were becoming established, and their requirement for brandies from the farmers was increasing demand. Coupled to this, the skills in making cognac had improved and a form of standardisation was gradually forming, both in the distillation and ageing process. But very little brandy was sold for keeping and most was intended to be cut with water when it reached its final destination – usually in Ireland or England.

However some producers had realised the benefits of longer ageing, especially farmers who were supplying quantities to the merchants for onward sales in Europe. By this time, ageing in oak was recognised as the way to develop a unique flavour. But it was noted that this took many years and for commercial reasons only small quantities could be kept back, either for the farmers benefit or for selling at a much greater price at a later date.

In early brandies, distillation took place many times to increase its strength. By 1800 the brandies were all double distilled and Richard Hennessey noted that shrewd operators were buying up year old brandies and keeping them until they could get a better price. In 1786 the tax laws were rescinded and the Treaty of Free trade was established, allowing the merchants and producers to become more selective in the profitable UK markets.

Some new names were also springing up – Otard and Dupuy were joined by Hine and all three saw advantage in the British markets by buying from the higher quality Saintonge rather from the south around Bordeaux. This loyalty to the Angoumois was later rewarded as the area’s brandies became known as cognac after the principle town in the region.

Distillation is a simple process, based on the fact that alcohol vaporises at a lower temperature than water, allowing the spirit to escape. When fermented liquor such as wine is heated, the alcohol vaporises and is trapped in the pipe leading from the top of the still, and is then cooled when it turns back into a liquid.

There are a number of problems such as the shape and size of the vessel, the metal from which it is constructed and the quality of the liquid being distilled. Although in early days distillation was repeated on several occasions to increase strength, by the eighteenth century double distillation had largely become the norm. Initially brouillis, a half strength spirit was produced, before being distilled again in what is called La Bonne Chauffe. The stage when the spirit was acceptable and stopped distilling, are further problems to which only very simple rules were applied. Consequently, the many variations at these stages created many less than perfect results.

By Muniers (a well known brandy trader) time, the conditions for producing the best cognac had been well defined. White grapes were used where ever possible, and the Folle Blanche had largely been accepted as producing the best distillation. By 1770 the Cognaçaise had learnt the necessity for acidic wines to aid the process.

In 1753, one Father Arcère wrote in a history of La Rochelle, “The wines of Aunis was once highly regarded, if in time it has lost its former reputation, this misfortune must be attributed to the poor choice of varieties used”, these plants have impaired the quality of the fruit whilst increasing the yield. It was largely the Balzac and the Folle Blanche which provided the quantity but not the quality. Of course the remark was directed towards the wines which were regarded more favourably than the distilled or condensed wines, later to be cut with water for drinking at their final destination.

However at this time, the trade in brandy was developing thanks largely to the efforts of brokers such as Hennessey, Lallamand, Roux and Augier, who had found ready buyers in Britain and Ireland.

By this time many farmers had seen that growing vines could develop a ready market, and the bois (woods) on the slopes around cognac had been cleared for planting vines. The region is today known as Fin Bois and represents the largest geographical area in the region although not the largest producing area. This was certainly different in 1753 when much of the area had been cleared for agricultural purposes.

However, by this time the quality of the wines from the area around Segonzac was also noted as being “very good” and were fetching a higher price than others, especially those from as far away as Nantes and Bordeaux. This was of course the time when many of the brandy houses were being set up, and the modern cognac industry that we know today was born. But it was to have its problems and over the next 150 years – wars, famines, disease and hardship were to follow.