It has been reported that the vine pest, Phylloxera Vastatrix, now known as Grape Phylloxera, is increasing its foothold in Australia. It has now been found in Victoria and New South Wales and the area infested is growing. The deadly aphid has a complex life cycle, reproducing at an alarming rate and attacking the roots of the vines. In the late nineteenth century, the Phylloxera decimated most of the vines (including cognac) in Europe, forcing the growers to replant using Phylloxera-resistant rootstock from the US. Today, many other countries are still growing the vulnerable Vitis Vinifera vines on their own roots. Perhaps this is because of the cost of replanting but also, some believe that the quality of the grapes from grafted rootstock is not as good. It seems that soon, the rest of the world will have no choice but to follow Europe’s lead.
Author: Bev Appleton
The Last Drop 1947 Cognac
The Last Drop Distillers, recently bought by Sazerac, has released a limited run of a 1947 Hors d’Age Cognac. Distilled just after the end of World War II, just 186 bottles are in existence. Each bottle has been filled by hand, wax sealed and presented in a red leather case along with a 50ml miniature. The bottling also includes a certificate of authenticity, a leather-bound tasting booklet and a custom-made stopper. It is an attractive presentation but before you feel compelled to part with £3,200 for one, check out the competition first. Hermitage 1947 Grande Champagne Cognac is a real gem from the same year. Traditionally presented, it can be purchased for a mere £711.34.
‘Brexit’ and the Drinks Industry
Since Great Britain voted to leave the EU, about a year ago, the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) has had much to say about it. They are concerned that if frictionless borders are not put in place, laborious customs checks will severely delay the importation of wine and spirits and lead to a resurgence in alcohol smugglers. More recently, the CEO said that it was essential the UK secure transitional measures that would allow sufficient time for “necessary systems to be introduced and properly tested” and avoid the UK falling off a cliff without a deal. The UK is the world’s second largest imported wine market and the largest spirits exporter so the Brexit challenge is as acute for the UK as it is for other European countries. On a more positive note, the UK ferry industry hopes that Brexit will provide a welcome boon for the travel retail sector, paving the way for the return of duty-free shopping on board for the first time in 20 years.
The Charente Scene – Summer 2017
Much of the news from the Charente recently has been about the severe frosts that occurred at the end of April. The air temperature dropped to between -3 and -4°C on two consecutive mornings, affecting around 70% of the vineyards in the cognac growing region. The frost, which was the worst since 1991, damaged the young shoots emerging from the vines and is thought to have affected 40% of total production. A BNIC spokesman said that in a few cases this year’s grape harvest has been completely wiped out and some growers may find it difficult to recover. To help raise the production level of this depleted grape availability, the BNIC have allowed production levels to rise from 10hl to 12hl of pure spirit per hectare. However, some growers, who concentrate on the high quality of their vines, believe this is far more than their vines can produce. We shall wait and see but one consequence could be an increase in cognac prices next year.
The Fall of Menuet Cognac – A Sad Tale
Chinese customs officials have recently uncovered more than US$29m of smuggled spirits and here is the story behind the news ….. More than twenty years ago, in our quest to find top quality Grande Champagne cognacs, we stumbled upon a cognac house called Menuet. You may have seen their cognacs on our web site, the 50 year old was a particular star. Sadly, the firm became embroiled in financial difficulties and because we understood both the firm and others around, we were able to assist by finding another organisation which could provide support. Menuet recovered its position and continued to sell in international markets. In due course however, the owner decided to sell the company to a Chinese named Mr Yang – he used the Menuet brand name to sell brandies in bulk to China, seemingly without paying duty or tax. Apparently, he mixed small quantities of cognac with huge volumes of cheap grape brandy. That is, until it was discovered recently by Chinese customs ….. What is really upsetting about this story is that a highly respected name, that once supplied some of the finest cognacs we have tasted, has been ruined by an unscrupulous Chinese operator prepared to supply cheap brandy in Cognac 1er cru bottles.
Spirits Outperform Beer in the UK
Spirits sales accounted for more tax revenue than beer in 2016, the first time that this has happened. The latest figures from HMRC show that the Treasury took around £3.38 billion from spirit sales compared to £3.32 billion from the sale of beer. This is an increase of 7% over the 2015 figure and it occurred in the year when the Chancellor froze spirit duty, arguably allowing the industry to grow and invest. The UK has the 4th highest spirits duty rates in the EU so the duty increase announced earlier this year in 2017 is a major disappointment. Although the growth in spirits has been gin-led, one top London store told us that they had also seen a significant increase in brown spirit sales, particularly cognac. Other trends reported this quarter show that the UK is leading the European market in online alcohol sales and in the On Trade sector, alcohol sales have risen to over £24Bn despite falling volumes. Consumers are continuing to trade up and look for more premium products like vintage cognac.
Brandyclassics News – Pineau des Charentes 2000
New to our shelves for the summer is Chateau de Beaulon’s vintage, white Pineau des Charentes 2000. Wonderfully delicious and rich, it was aged in casks previously used for the famous Chateau d’Yquem white Sauterne. Perfect for a summer’s evening.
Are Craft Spirits or Beer Really ‘Craft’?
According to Craft Spirits and Beer, ‘Craft’ is a term used to describe spirits and beers that are handmade in smaller batches, with superior ingredients by people who are passionate about quality. But as these products grow in popularity, is it possible for them to stay true to their roots?
Here in the UK the big supermarkets have all upped their range of ‘Craft’ beers. This has led to accusations that the breweries are selling out the independent shops that nurtured them. Market forces are clearly the cause. However, one must question whether these ‘Craft’ beers can still be produced in ‘smaller batches’ when trying to meet demand from the multiples.
Similarly, the increasing demand for ‘Craft’ gin has affected its production. It has become an open secret that many companies buy in their base liquid from big, third-party distillers. Gin can then be produced more cheaply or in greater quantities. This may make economic sense but it is not the image that ‘Craft’ gin conjures up. Vintage cognac, on the other hand, will always be ‘Craft’. It is created in small quantities by passionate experts, cannot be hurried and the quantities cannot be upped at will.
Why are rose bushes planted in vineyards?
On a recent trip to the Charente I took this picture of a rose bush at the end of a row of cognac vines. This placement of rose bushes has created considerable interest from our followers. I therefore thought it would make an ideal Technical Topic.
Originally, roses were planted in vineyards as an early warning system. Roses and grapevines typically have the same type of soil and sun requirements. In addition, both are prone to the infestation of a fungus known as powdery mildew. If this fungus appeared on the roses, the vines were sprayed with sulphur to prevent the grapes from succumbing. Downy mildew is another fungus that attacks the green parts of the grape vine. If detected on a rose bush the grape vines were immediately sprayed with a solution of copper sulphate and lime. Another historic reason for the planting of roses dates to when they used horses to pull the plough. The rose’s thorns were thought to deter the horse from hitting the post at the end of the row.
Nowadays, there isn’t a horse and plough in sight. Most vineyards use modern methods to monitor carefully the soil and health of the vines. Rose bushes are no longer required, so why are they still in evidence? Cynics will tell you that they attract tourists who enjoy seeing them in situ. Others will suggest they are purely aesthetic or that they provide food for bees and habitat for insects beneficial to the vineyard. Some believe that roses are tastier than grape vines to pests, so they draw these damaging insects away from the grapes.
Whatever the reasons for planting roses in the vineyards today, you must admit that they add to the milieu and create a sense of nostalgia. These are things of which the Cognaçaise are immensely proud.