It seems that the Russians are moving into Cognac as several growers and cognac houses have sold out to Russian interests.

The latest to do so is Jacky Chat, whose 110 hectares of vines are divided into 18 plots over the communes of Beauvais sur Matha and Veraize et Migron. M. Chat sells all his eau de vie to Hennessy so does not have any under his own label. He started his business in 1963 with just 6 hectares and has gradually built it up from there. M. Chats let it be known a few months ago that he was selling his estate, but the Cognaçais (La Cagouillards – Snails), failed to take advantage of the opportunity.

The new Russian owner has asked M. Chat to remain with the company for a few years so that they can continue to sell their wines to Hennessy, who have bought from the estate in past years. This is the sixth company in this area to have fallen to the Russians, and includes such names as the Domaine Jennsen a Bonneuil, Domaine Broix a Touzan and A de Fussigny. The area is close to the old estate in Bonneville belonging to the Comtesse de La Bourdeliere and from where the famous old Massougnes were made. A number of other houses are also now owned by Russians including Croizet Cognac!

Remy Cointreau’s revenue for the year ended 31 March 2011 grew 12%, driven by demand for Cognac in Asia and their travel retail business. It appears that cognac sales have risen 20% to €486 million throughout all their sales regions, but Asia have shown the largest growth, most notably in China where the market is buying everything it can get its hands on. China is currently the fastest growing sector of the cognac industry. Remy’s other brands did not do so well, with Metaxa sales declining and Mount Gay rum staying flat.

It appears that the Chinese are moving forward at an amazing rate with their willingness to buy cognacs. Their insatiable demand for luxury spirits is causing a big problem with producers, who are struggling to keep the older stocks in their cellars for maturation, as legal requirements do not protect cognacs after six and a half years of age.

Remy are not alone in their quest to sell to the Chinese markets, Hennessy lead the field as the biggest cognac supplier in China and the Far East, with Martell and Courvoisier following on behind. Only America has greater volume sales, but the highest value markets are dominated by the Chinese.

Visiting France again last week to locate more vintage cognacs, we were delighted to have found a number of exceptionally fine brandies. Top of our list is a seventy year old cognac from the region around Juillac la Coq. There is not a large quantity, some sixty litres in all, but it is exceptionally rare and we expect to be able to obtain at least half of it, which we are hoping to be sold as a special presentation.

We have also identified a fabulous 2002 vintage with an aroma and flavour of clover honey. This cognac is at over 60% and will have to be brought down, but we still feel that despite having to wait over a year for it to come down to around 50% alc it is worth waiting for. Indeed we will probably have to bring it down more to around 45-47% for it to be at its best.

Another cognac which requires some modest dilution is a very rare 1914 Borderies Cognac – this has a wonderful old toffee and roast walnut aroma and taste, it should be ready in about three months for drinking and will be a winner. We have one bonbonne of it at present but there are two more, so here’s hoping!

We have recently sold our last bottle of 1900 and were also pleased to obtain a further bonbonne from around Cognac. It is at 44.3% but we feel that this is about the right strength for the brandy and is available now.

Why, oh why do we in Britain have such a love of Pineau des Charentes but never seem to drink it? In a generation of tasting this rich aperitif from the Charente region, I have only come across one person who has failed to like it, saying it was too sweet. Pineau is sold in this country as both an aperitif and a dessert wine. It is made from 25% eau de vie, to which regional grape juice is added (the Charente being rather rich in fine grape varietals particularly of the red type).

Apart from the wonderful Chateau de Beaulon five year old red and white Pineau’s,  and a 1995 vintage matured in Yquem barrels, we have introduced a truly delicious rosé from Bertrand. It is a 7 year old pineau and has an aroma and taste reminiscent of rose hips – it is really magical. But do remember to drink Pineau really cold!

To attract the ladies try a Pineau Royale. Mix half a bottle of white Pineau with half a bottle of fizzy mineral water, the juice of a couple of lemons, a decent shot of cognac and lots of ice, serve with lemon slices in tall glasses. Wow!

Vinexpo is the biggest wines and spirits exhibition in the world. It is held in Bordeaux every other year and on alternate years is held in Hong Kong.

Although the official figures showed a 3% increase in visitor numbers, numbers of European visitors were down with the exception of visitors from the UK. Visitors from China and South East Asia, as well as visitors from Russia were up. The Chinese are generally increasing in wealth and are becoming much more aware of fine wines and spirits (and many Chinese have a cultural relationship with cognacs since they indicate wealth and prosperity). The Russians too have seen an increase in their wealth and have become much more enthusiastic about embracing fine wines and spirits.

Probably the biggest factor that has kept Europeans away is the proximity to the big German exhibition, Prowein, held this year in the beginning of March. This date seen by many Europeans as far more acceptable, since it does not interfere with the summer marketing and sales campaigns for the coming autumn. The Italians also have an exhibition in the Spring, but the Bordeaux exhibition has other difficulties – most notably, the lack of suitable accommodation in the area.