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Author: Bev Appleton

Armagnac’s Back In Fashion in The Americas?

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armagnac's back in fashionArmagnac has never been as popular as cognac, or as expensive, but that may be set to change, particularly in The Americas. Quebec’s liquor board, SAQ, reports a 7.5% growth in armagnac sales so far this year compared to 3% growth in cognac. First produced in the 16th century, armagnac was the original French distilled spirit. Not as polished as cognac, armagnac is only distilled once, but it is low-key and laid back and has a really complex, full-grape flavour. This rusticity and small-scale production give it true authenticity which is helping to increase its appeal. An expected shortage of Scotch whisky has seen customers look for an alternative and armagnac seems to fit the bill better than most. At the bottom end it is extremely cocktail-friendly and at the top end, it provides many collectible vintages. Few other spirits offer aged, rare expressions at such reasonable prices and perhaps most importantly, the armagnac industry has room to grow. Perhaps armagnac’s back in fashion and about to come of age?

The Bottle Story – What’s in a Cognac Label?

Posted / in Brandy Bottle Reviews, News, The Bottle Story and tagged

We are used to seeing unusual designs of cognac bottles and carafes to catch the eye (many of which have been featured here in The Bottle Story) but recently some big producers have taken to using a bespoke cognac label, designed by a well-known artist, to make their products stand out on the shelves. Hennessy, in particular, must feel that their products are in need of a boost and American tattoo artist Scott Campbell has created the latest artwork. Its purpose, presumably, is to attract younger customers who, in the last 10 years, have embraced the tattoo culture and made it the latest ‘must-have’. Another of Hennessy’s labels was designed by the Italian duo, Carnovsky. A far more colourful affair, this was probably commissioned primarily for the American market. Many of the big houses’ products contain young, blended cognacs which can be difficult to differentiate by taste. These labels are certainly eye catching and will probably serve their purpose of making the bottle stand out from the crowd. Here at Hermitage we take a different approach. Our product, its label and packaging is designed to exude luxury but in a classical, tasteful way. We know that our customers buy Hermitage for the fabulous flavours and individuality of each cognac so gimmicky labels that might look good on the bar, or the sideboard at home, wouldn’t only convey the wrong impression, they’re just not necessary.  Take a look at our cognacs here.

Cognac Must Ditch Generic Branding

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Recent figures released by the BNIC appear to give nothing but good news for the cognac industry. Record shipments in 2015 saw an increase of 8.5% by volume and 21.3% by value. However, over half of total cognac sales were of the youngest VS variety and volumes of older cognac sales fell. Some of this was undoubtedly due to the ’China Effect’ but there are other factors too. Strict rules on the production of cognac can restrict product development. Regulations do protect traditions but they can also reduce competitiveness. VS and VSOP cognacs often find themselves vying for shelf space with other fast growing spirits, such as rum.

1965 Vintage Cognac

According to Hine’s CEO, there is a need to diversify the product by stepping away from traditional blends and focussing on ‘micro-provenance’. Our own David Baker  agrees, calling for a radical revaluation of marketing tactics and a move away from generic branding to offer greater individuality (See The Spirits Business, 6 Sep 16). He adds that we must be careful not to lose the traditional values of cognac – a sentiment echoed by the Global Director of Courvoisier who said “I don’t think there has been a lot of communication about how cognac is produced …. and why it is worth paying more for it”. Very much our view. Driving sales along the volume market route may provide short-term success but will threaten the uniqueness of the product. For cognac to remain a luxury spirit, a fresh industry approach based on increasing value not volume sales is required – take a look at our cognacs – all have age statements.

The Charente Scene – Autumn 2016

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Major Houses Require More Vines in The Charente

Cognac regionHennessy, with sales to America alone of 4 million cases of mainly VS and VSOP a year, have successfully pressed the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) for an increase of 1% in new vine plantings. This increase is the biggest ever approved by the Bureau and represents an increase of around 800 hectares. The vines are to be planted next spring and will be ready for their first harvest in three years’ time. With yields of around 9.5 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha) it means that growers will be able to produce a further 7,500 hl of pure spirit. The crop this year looks as if the quality will be high and although there was some hot sun earlier, the quantity available should be up to the current maximum level permitted of 9.5 hl/ha. Good news for the cognac industry in The Charente Scene this autumn.

Scent Inspired by Cognac Aroma

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Last month we wrote about how cognac, with its many aromas and flavours, can certainly appeal to women as the same scents are often found in beauty products.  Clearly, we were not alone with this theory; well known television star Sarah-Jessica Parker seems to agree.  She has just released her latest perfume, Stash, after 10 years in the making and happily confesses that it was influenced by cognac and leather amongst other things. An interesting choice but once again highlighting how important cognac aroma is and how it transcends the genders.  Describing the feel she was trying to recreate, SJP obviously felt that a hint of cognac was an attractive proposition.  Not as girlie perhaps as apricots and vanilla, but the more wintery cognac aromas of leather, truffle and cigar box might be more appealing to the female kind than perhaps would have been thought?  If you’d like to make this comparison, try tasting our Hermitage 10 Year Old and Roullet Fransac’s 1970 Cognac:

A Small Taste of Hermitage Cognac Heaven in 20cl Bottles

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Hermitage 20cl bottlesThe first 20cl bottles of Hermitage Cognac are being launched.  This new concept has been designed to suit the needs of many; connoisseurs seeking to taste some of our more expensive cognacs but also individuals wishing to buy sufficient for a small gathering such as a dinner party or to avoid waste at a cosy function. These sophisticated and exciting bottles are new to the industry and another ‘1st’ For Hermitage Cognacs. Currently a selection of our cognacs are available in 20cl bottles from Hedonism Wines and our website and shortly we will be releasing the new Cognac Café 20 in this format. Ideal to drink with a late morning coffee or as a ‘digestif’ before retiring, the 20cl Cognac Café 20 will be the perfect accompaniment to any occasion.

Our Latest Vintage Hermitage Cognac Releases

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60 year old cognacBrand new on the shelves this month is our latest Hermitage 60 Year Old Cognac. This remarkable cognac comes from the top cru, known as Grande Champagne, and has been aged in oak casks for more than 60 years.  At a strength of 40.5%, it has autumnal aromas including tobacco, ginger and clove. Its flavours of truffle, clove, liquorice, burnt toffee and dried fig with a finish of dried mandarin are perfect for enjoying with a fine cigar or to celebrate any 60th Birthday or Anniversary occasion.

Working closely with our customers, we have established that there is a growing café bar culture for cognacs.  At Hermitage we are the first cognac house to recognise this need and we have perfected the ideal cognac called Hermitage Cognac Café 20.  This rich mocha and roasted walnut flavoured cognac is more than 20 years old and comes from the top cognac cru, Grande Champagne.  During the second half of the 17th century the London “café society” people were experimenting with new drinks. Non-alcoholic drinks like coffee and tea were new but some liked more robust drinks like port, sherry and a spirit from a small town in Western France called Cognac. Today, Hermitage produce a whole range of cognacs with age statements that are aged naturally, with individual flavours, styles, strengths and ages.  Cognacs, the likes of which you will never have tasted before.

Hermitage 1967 CognacWe are very excited about this summer’s vintage cognac release, the Hermitage Petite Champagne 1967.  At 41% abv, this complex cognac has many charming and attractive qualities. It is mature yet youthful and light. There are flavours of wild cherry, mangosteen, toast, muscat, dried fig, allspice and even a hint of turmeric on the tail.  One cognac in a range of nearly thirty, this is a little piece of Hermitage pure bliss.

Massougnes 1801 sold for £222,000 !!

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Massougnes 1801There was great excitement in the Brandyclassics office this week as the first of our two imperial three quarter gallon bottles of Massougnes Cognac was sold by the famous London store, Hedonism Wines, for £222,000.  The bottle originally came from Marie-Antoinette des Allees, Comtesse de la Bourdeliere, a direct descendent of Louis VII and Elleanor of Aquitaine and their children, King Richard of England and King John. The Comtesse still lives in the Chateau, on what remains of the Massougnes estate, near Aigre. Cognacs from the pre-Phylloxera era are a speciality of ours. In addition to the last remaining bottle of Massougnes (1805), we have a number of other very old cognacs dating from 1789 to 1893. Our post-Phylloxera cognac vintages range from 1900 to 2005.

Cognac Balance

Posted / in Brandy Education, How to make Cognac and tagged

cognac stillThe process of distilling cognacs requires that the wines are distilled twice, the second distillation must be between 67-72.4 degrees. The spirit, known as eau de vie, is water clear and tasting it can render the tongue numb for several days. Little surprise then that young cognacs, aged for the minimum time, have to be reduced to a lower level of alcohol and additives used to colour and hide the aggressiveness of the spirit and so achieve some Cognac balance.

The natural colour of cognac is derived from the tannins in the oak barrels. The use of new barrels after distillation to give the cognac a quick boost can actually provide a more aggressive fieriness in the spirit in the early stages. Whilst a level of colour will develop in the spirit during the first stages of ageing, nothing can overcome the huge imbalance between alcohol and taste until the cognac has been in the barrel for at least ten years. Both sugar syrup and caramel are therefore often used to help address the fieriness and lack of colour in young brandies, a process known as obscuration.

About twenty years ago there was an unscripted charter between the big cognac houses that the maximum obscuration of cognac would be no more than 2%. The increasing demand for young (and cheaper) cognacs has meant that the big houses now buy their cognacs for ageing sometimes only eighteen months after distillation. Often they are bottled as young as 3 years old. This creates a massive problem especially when they are blended with cognacs from the Champagnes which age at a much slower rate than those from other crus. Inevitably, the younger the cognac the more sugar and caramel is needed to create an acceptable level of flavour and balance. As available cognacs become younger, the obscuration level has had to increase and it is now substantially more than 2%.

Of course there is another element to balancing cognacs – dilution. Cognacs will gradually reduce naturally, however, nowhere near quickly enough for the big houses to sell profitably. Young cognacs between 60-65% abv will need more than 50% water adding to them before they can be sold. Water itself is difficult to add successfully though very quick chilling of the cognac can help.

Perhaps the most accepted additive, and one that is far more natural than others, is the use of boisé. Produced by boiling oak chips over and over again in cognac, it is dark in colour and can be viscose. When added to cognac it can provide quite a bitter effect until it has had time to complete its accelerated ageing process. Some people refer to this as a “false ageing” but it is not. It uses exactly the same ingredients as occur naturally in cognac so in effect, it is an age accelerator. However, too much can provide an undesirable bitterness when used in young cognacs.

Balancing the strength and flavour of fine cognacs is a great skill. There is a place for some additives but we avoid the use of sugar and caramel as we believe that any cognac from the Champagnes under ten years old is not sufficiently developed to ever create the truly memorable qualities found in Hermitage Cognacs.

Read more Technical Topics on our Brandy Education page.

The Rancio

Posted / in Brandy Education, How to make Cognac and tagged ,

Brandyclassics MDProfessionally, as an industry assemblage of blenders, cellar masters, connoisseurs, distillers and negoçiants, our aim is to provide the very finest cognacs we can for each market sector. We know that there is no alternative to long ageing in oak barrels to enhance the distillers’ skills and provide the flavour and richness (Rancio) that is so desirable. Perhaps it was by accident in the 16th and 17th centuries that the chemical changes taking place between wood and spirit were noticed. Over the centuries the effects of ageing have been recorded and gradually formed the criteria by which the standard of a modern cognac is defined.

Cognac cellarsPerhaps also by accident, after discoveries of old barrels in the corners of family cellars, it was found that some of the oldest cognacs had acquired a sort of maderization and developed an interesting richness. This effect was noted in some cognacs after only 20 – 30 years of barrel ageing but those from the Champagnes took longer to develop it. Charles Walter Berry of Berry Brothers is said to have described this character of fullness and fatness in some brandies as rankness (rancio), an effect also noted by some tasters of Roquefort cheese.

cognac ageingIt is the oak barrels which produce this most agreeable ‘rancio’. Oak has little or none of the resinous substances found in other woods (that can pollute the spirit with undesirable tastes) and it provides a number of useful elements: tannins the best known comprise a mere 5% and lignin, equally vital, a further 23%. Much of the rest is made up of the relatively neutral hemi-cellulose which gradually dissolves in the maturing spirit and imparts an agreeable sweetness found in older cognacs. The tannins and lignins dissolve at different rates so after 5 years 10% of the lignins and 20% of the tannins will have been absorbed. After ten years this will have doubled but in later years the rate of absorbtion will slow. Conventional wisdom says that in some cases it takes 50 – 80 years to absorb all the tannins in the wood.

Chemically, rancio derives from the oxidation of fatty acids in the spirit into ketones which produce the richness felt on the palate. It is reminiscent of an old madeira wine, a sort of rich pineapple mustiness which we all hope to find when tasting old cognacs. But this is only one of many chemical reactions and their effect on the palate. One team of scientists, led by Dr Heide, detected 334 ingredients in cognac; 24 acetals (ethylates of aldehyde and alcohol), 27 acids, 63 alcohols, 34 aldehydes, 25 ketones, 77 esters, 19 ethers, 3 lactones, 8 phenols and 44 diverse substances. Many of these substances have still not been separated and analysed; some form an important part of the mix; some strongly influence the taste. For example, ethyl compounds are strongly reminiscent of rotten fruit. Finding the right combination of these elements in an old cognac does not always happen but when it does you will know that you have tasted a very fine cognac that may have started its life as much as a hundred years ago. Perhaps the very best example of ‘rancio’ we can offer is the Hermitage 1914 Borderies.

Read more Technical Topics on our Brandy Education page.