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Max Cointreau Dies

One of the most highly regarded names in the cognac industry, Max Cointreau, died on 19 October at his home in Gensac la Pallue, near Cognac aged 94. Max was joint managing director of Frapin, in the heart of Grande Champagne, having started his career in 1942 presiding over the Domaine Château de Fontpinot.

In the early days, his firm worked closely with Remy Martin supplying many of their wines and eaux de vie. However, in the 1950s he refused to marry the elder daughter of Andre Renaud, of Remy Martin, choosing instead to marry her younger sister. This created a major disagreement and Remy thereafter refused to buy their brandies from Frapin. Max lost control of Remy and Cointreau but managed to retain the prestigious Château Fontpinot.   He subsequently resurrected the family Frapin brand and in due course, the historic brand of Gosset Champagne too.

Max served as President of the National Union of Liquor Manufacturers, President of the Social Commission of the National Council of Wine and Spirit for eight years and was appointed a Foreign Trade Advisor of France. He was also the Mayor of Gensac la Palue from 1969 to 2001 and awarded with the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, the highest decoration in France.

Frapin has, in past years, produced some wonderful cognacs and memorable vintages; they are regarded highly in the industry with their fine Grande Champagne cognacs. Max Cointreau will be remembered as one of the patriarchs of the cognac industry.

Sazerac Buys Domaine Breuil de Segonzac Cognac

Sazerac bought  Breuil de SegonzacSazerac, one of America’s oldest family owned, privately held distillers, has purchased Domaine Breuil de Segonzac Cognac located in the Grande Champagne region. The property is about 220 acres in size and the purchase includes the cognac distillery, organic vineyards and chateau-style mansion dating from 1870. “Given the roots of our company, we are very excited to add a cognac house to our family, especially one as historic and prestigious as this one,” said Mark Brown, CEO.  Sadly, many small cognac houses have been sold to foreign buyers in recent years but usually from Asia. This American investment was inevitable given the recent rise in popularity of cognac in the US. Thankfully the CEO added “We intend to continue the proud heritage and preserve its authenticity and character.”  We are always pleased to see small cognac houses, like Hermitage, remain successful.

New Cognacs In Stock

New CognacsNew cognacs have been arriving in our stores over the past few months.  The latest addition to our Hermitage Cognacs range is an exceptional vintage 1956. Beautifully balanced with a long finish this is certainly a cognac to savour and for those wanting just a taster, it is also available in 20Cl bottles.

We recently supplied our Hermitage 1975 Cognac in magnums for a very special order. Looking mighty impressive, they tasted even better. One of our most successful vintages, the 1975 is coming to an end so if you need to replenish your stocks then please do so right away.

The Christmas winner however, was our Hermitage Cognac Café 20. It was featured in the Sunday papers where TV presenter and award-winning wine expert Olly Smith commented “this is as good as it gets and it’s mind-blowing with after-dinner coffee”. Have you tried it yet?

Cognac Sales Grow in US and China

On Trade spirit sales are outperforming beer and wine in the US, according to Nielson. The steady growth was driven by cognac, Irish whiskey, tequila and single malt scotch. Cognac sales led the way with an impressive 31.1% in volume growth and 36.8% in value being reported during the last quarter. Clearly cognac’s popularity in the US continues to burgeon. China has also recently posted positive figures. Spirits imports registered growth in November 2016 representing a 41.8% volume increase and a 77.9% value increase compared with November 2015. Brandy was credited with being the driving force behind the upturn – yet more good news for the cognac industry.

The Charente Scene – Winter 2017

Christmas is always a time in The Charente when the end of year figures are important, both financially and commercially, to assess the sales and market growth. In a way, the Christmas lights and festivities in the town mean more to its main industry, cognac, than they do to its people since the holiday period is only for two days and very few people take extended holidays. However, cognac is by far the biggest industry in the town and the prosperity of the people depends very much on the success of the industry.

Over 90% of all cognac produced is exported to other countries. It is estimated that value gains over this last year will be 2.3% higher and volume gains 3.6% higher. Remy Martin and Martell were the biggest winners in the market with sales growth over the previous year of 15.15% and 13.99% respectively. The biggest loser was Courvoisier who posted a 3.7% decline in growth. Christmas celebrations this year should have been relatively joyous in the town as it prepares to take on the whisky and white spirits market.

Why Chill Filter Cognac?

Non-chill cognacPernod Ricard has launched the first Martell non-chill filtered cognac. Chill filtering is a process routinely employed by the larger cognac houses. It is a means of clarifying the appearance of the drink as it forces the spirit and water to mix more quickly and effectively. (The effect of mixing spirit with water can be seen when water is added to whisky as it often becomes cloudy). Young, mass-produced cognacs need to be reduced with water quickly to prepare them for market so chill-filtering is a useful tool – although it is only effective on spirits with an abv of less than 46 degrees. The temperature of the cognac is reduced to between -10 and +4 degrees to assist reduction and a fine absorption filter is also used to take out very small particles. This filtration reduces haziness but also captures some of the esters and fatty acids which are produced during the production and ageing process. Most experts claim that this filtering affects the flavour since some of these esters and fatty acids form into congeners (flavouroids) which add flavour. We do not chill filter at Hermitage Cognacs as all our cognacs are reduced naturally or over a very long period of time.  Take our Hermitage 1917 for example – distilled 100 years ago.

Drinking Cognac at Christmas

Drinking CognacThere seems little doubt that alcohol can, in moderation, be good for you. It has been said that drinking cognac provides a greater benefit than other alcohol and scientists tell us that it increases antioxidant levels. These are beneficial substances that keep harmful free radicals from damaging our cells. According to a study published in “Cardiovascular Ultrasound” in 2008, this sort of damage can increase the risk of clogged arteries, heart disease, cancer and vision loss. Drinking alcohol may also help limit the risk of Type 2 Diabetes but beware, excessive consumption can increase the risk of cancer, heart disease and liver disease. Of course, moderation is the key, excessive consumption of any alcoholic beverage should be avoided.

NelsonBrandy has been around a long time and traditionally has had many uses as it was available in large quantities from the French and Spanish naval vessels.  During the battles, which these navies fought, brandy was often used as an anaesthetic or antiseptic and in one particular extreme case as a preservative.  It is said that a whole barrel of brandy was used to preserve Admiral Nelson’s body until it could be returned to British shores. Hardly moderation but Nelson would probably have been pleased that he came home in a barrel of fine French brandy.

Armagnac’s Back In Fashion in The Americas?

armagnac's back in fashionArmagnac has never been as popular as cognac, or as expensive, but that may be set to change, particularly in The Americas. Quebec’s liquor board, SAQ, reports a 7.5% growth in armagnac sales so far this year compared to 3% growth in cognac. First produced in the 16th century, armagnac was the original French distilled spirit. Not as polished as cognac, armagnac is only distilled once, but it is low-key and laid back and has a really complex, full-grape flavour. This rusticity and small-scale production give it true authenticity which is helping to increase its appeal. An expected shortage of Scotch whisky has seen customers look for an alternative and armagnac seems to fit the bill better than most. At the bottom end it is extremely cocktail-friendly and at the top end, it provides many collectible vintages. Few other spirits offer aged, rare expressions at such reasonable prices and perhaps most importantly, the armagnac industry has room to grow. Perhaps armagnac’s back in fashion and about to come of age?

The Bottle Story – What’s in a Cognac Label?

We are used to seeing unusual designs of cognac bottles and carafes to catch the eye (many of which have been featured here in The Bottle Story) but recently some big producers have taken to using a bespoke cognac label, designed by a well-known artist, to make their products stand out on the shelves. Hennessy, in particular, must feel that their products are in need of a boost and American tattoo artist Scott Campbell has created the latest artwork. Its purpose, presumably, is to attract younger customers who, in the last 10 years, have embraced the tattoo culture and made it the latest ‘must-have’. Another of Hennessy’s labels was designed by the Italian duo, Carnovsky. A far more colourful affair, this was probably commissioned primarily for the American market. Many of the big houses’ products contain young, blended cognacs which can be difficult to differentiate by taste. These labels are certainly eye catching and will probably serve their purpose of making the bottle stand out from the crowd. Here at Hermitage we take a different approach. Our product, its label and packaging is designed to exude luxury but in a classical, tasteful way. We know that our customers buy Hermitage for the fabulous flavours and individuality of each cognac so gimmicky labels that might look good on the bar, or the sideboard at home, wouldn’t only convey the wrong impression, they’re just not necessary.  Take a look at our cognacs here.

Cognac Must Ditch Generic Branding

Recent figures released by the BNIC appear to give nothing but good news for the cognac industry. Record shipments in 2015 saw an increase of 8.5% by volume and 21.3% by value. However, over half of total cognac sales were of the youngest VS variety and volumes of older cognac sales fell. Some of this was undoubtedly due to the ’China Effect’ but there are other factors too. Strict rules on the production of cognac can restrict product development. Regulations do protect traditions but they can also reduce competitiveness. VS and VSOP cognacs often find themselves vying for shelf space with other fast growing spirits, such as rum.

1965 Vintage Cognac

According to Hine’s CEO, there is a need to diversify the product by stepping away from traditional blends and focussing on ‘micro-provenance’. Our own David Baker  agrees, calling for a radical revaluation of marketing tactics and a move away from generic branding to offer greater individuality (See The Spirits Business, 6 Sep 16). He adds that we must be careful not to lose the traditional values of cognac – a sentiment echoed by the Global Director of Courvoisier who said “I don’t think there has been a lot of communication about how cognac is produced …. and why it is worth paying more for it”. Very much our view. Driving sales along the volume market route may provide short-term success but will threaten the uniqueness of the product. For cognac to remain a luxury spirit, a fresh industry approach based on increasing value not volume sales is required – take a look at our cognacs – all have age statements.